TRUTH IN SURFING
THE RECENT HISTORY OF SURFING ACCORDING TO THE INSECTS
THE MORE RECENT HISTORY OF SURFING REPRESENTS A SPIRITUALLY PRODUCTIVE PERIOD FOR OUR SPECIES DURING WHICH THE THIRST FOR SELF EXPRESSION PROVOKED THE CHANGING SHAPE AND FUNCTION OF SURFBOARDS IN A MANNER REFLECTIVE OF PERSONAL GROWTH, THE AWAKENING OF THE HUMAN MIND, AND THE ENRICHMENT OF CULTURE IN GENERAL. NOT WITHSTANDING THE HIGHLY TUNED ALAIA AND OTHER RAW, WOODEN EQUIPMENT WHICH SPROUTED IN PARALLEL AMONGST ANCIENT MARITIME SOCIETIES, OVER THE LAST 60 YEARS NEW IDEAS HAVE FOUND A FOOTING IN IMPROVED TECHNOLOGICAL PROFICIENCY, SO THAT THE A SURFER’S TRAJECTORY ON A WAVE HAS COME TO BEFIT THE BOUNDLESS NATURE OF REALITY AND OF THE SOUL ITSELF.
IN AUSTRALIA IN THE EARLY 60S SURFBOARDS EMBODIED THE CULTURE OF THE TIMES: STRAIGHT AND LIMITING. RUDIMENTARY, RAW AND EASILY CAPABLE OF BREAKING YOUR LEG, THESE 9 TO 10 FOOT BOARDS WERE RUDDERED BY A ‘D’ SHAPED SKEG INTENT ON MAINTAINING THE MOST DIRECT FALL LINE. REGARDLESS, ADOPTING THE SECRETS OF CALIFORNIAN COOL RELINQUISHED BY THE GIDGET MOVIES, AN ARMY OF GROTTY YOUTHS IN TAN DESERT BOOTS EMBRACED THE CRAZE, THEIR BAG A CONSPIRACY OF PHIL EDWARDS’ FUNCTIONAL DEXTERITY, MIKI DORA’S DARK, BEATNIK MYSTIQUE, AND GARNERING SOME OF THE GRACE OF MARY ANN HAWKINS. FUSING MIDDLE EASTERN RHYTHMS WITH THOSE OF MANLY BEACH PEELERS, THE ATLANTICS BROKE LIKE A STORM WITH THE CRASH AND TUMBLE OF BOMBORA, JUST AS THE MOMENTUM OF THE SURFING MOVEMENT PEEKED IN AUSTRALIA, PROPELLING THE MANTIS PRANCING AUSTRALIAN SUPERSTAR MIDGET FARRELLY TO WORLD CHAMPION. BY THE END OF 1964, HOWEVER, THE BEATLES HAD BEATEN INTEREST IN MIDGET AND THE SURFING FAD ITSELF WITH MERSEY-BEAT. SURFBOARD DESIGN, ON THE OTHER HAND, BEGAN A METAMORPHOSIS.
BY 1965, AS THE EASYBEATS CHIRPED SHE’S SO FINE IN A KINKSY FLURRY THAT SPAWNED EASYFEVER, SYDNEYSIDE SURFERS BUZZED TO THE NEWLY FOUND FLEXIBILITY OF INCREASINGLY RAKED, HYDRODYNAMIC FINS EMERGING FROM THE THINK TANK SURROUNDING THE WORLD TITLES IN THE PRECEDING YEAR. BOARDS REMAINED HEAVY: WOODEN STRINGERS AND DOUBLE 12 OUNCE FIBREGLASS CLOTH CEMENTED THAT CONDITION. BUT NEW CONCEPTS WERE INFILTRATING LIKE WORM HOLES. CONCAVE SURFACES AND OTHER DESIGN QUIRKS ELEVATED THE NOSE OF THE SURFBOARD, ALLOWING ASCENDENCY TO THE ALL BUT RELIGIOUS NOSE RIDING MANOEUVRE WHICH HAD SLID OVER FROM THE UNITED STATES. DAVID NUUHIWA WAS AT THE TIP OF THE NOSERIDING FETISH IN THE CALIFORNIA, CLOCKING UP ASTOUNDING PERCH TIME ON THE FRONT OF HIS SIGNATURE VESSELS. BUT AROUND THE TIME PSYCHE POP GROUP THE STRAWBERRY ALARM CLOCK WERE THINKING UP THE SLIGHT HIT INCENSE AND PEPPERMINTS, AUSTRALIAN SURFERS WERE DREAMING UP A NEW STYLE OF ON-EDGE SURFING.
IN 1966 NAT YOUNG WON THE WORLD TITLE. NUUHIWA WAS RELIEVED OF HIS THRONE, NOSERIDING TOOK A DIVE AND WAS BLOWN AWAY. CHEEKILY, JOHN WITZIG ANNOUNCED IN SURFER MAGAZINE -WHAT IS THE FUTURE? WE’RE ON TOP AND WILL CONTINUE TO DOMINATE WORLD SURFING. CALIFORNIA SURFING IS SO TIED AND STIFLED BY RESTRICTIONS THAT ARE ITS OWN CREATION, AND THE OTHER COUNTRIES SIMPLY DO NOT HAVE THE NECESSARY ABILITYIRONICALLY IT WAS EXPAT CALIFORNIAN KNEEBOARDER (AND, STRANGELY ENOUGH, PURVEYOR OF THE BLOW-UP SURFMAT) GEORGE GREENOUGH WHO PERCEIVED A LINE BETWEEN THE FIN MORPHOLOGY OF PELAGIC FISH AND SURFBOARD FIN DESIGN, AND BEGAN TO DRAW IT. SPORTING TINY SHORTS IN FLORAL OR BEIGE, HELMET HAIRCUTS AND THE OCCASIONAL PAUL MCCARTNEY SERGEANT PEPPER ERA WISPY MOUSTACHE, A SMALL ENSEMBLE OF MAVERICK AUSSIE SURFERS WENT ON THE RUN. ROUSED BY GREENOUGH’S TUBE RIDING INSIGHTS AND THE CHALLENGE MOUNTED AGAINST NORMAL NOTIONS OF PERCEPTION BY BOB MCTAVISH, HOT YOUNG RIDERS INCLUDING TED SPENCER AND KEVEN BRENNAN FLED THE CITY FOR THE NORTHEASTERN POINTBREAKS AND, WITH FLOWERS IN THEIR EYES, BROUGHT ABOUT BOUNDARY BUSTING BOARD LENGTHS AND CURL TEASING CUTBACKS THAT CAME TO DEFINE THE NEW FREEDOM IN THE BLISSED-OUT HOT GENERATION. VICTORIAN SUPER KID WAYNE LYNCH WATCHED ON FROM LORNE, SOON TO BREAK THROUGH. CARESSING THE CURL, SALUTING THE SOUP AND COCKING THE HEAD PUSHED INVOLVEMENT WITH THE POWER OF THE WAVE. THE SHACKLES OF STRAIGHT LINE SURFING ENFORCED BY LIMITED THOUGHT AND SINGLE MINDED ‘D’ FINS HAD BEEN UNPICKED. AT THE SAME TIME, POPULAR MUSIC SQUEEZED OUT OF THE ORDERLY BLUE PRINT PRESCRIBED BY CHUCK BERRY AND BUDDY HOLLY, TRANSPORTED TOWARD FREE FORM JAZZY MEANDERING AND FIFTH DIMENSIONAL ASPIRATIONS. RULES REGARDING CLOTHING WERE DISCARDED. HAIRCUTS WERE CANCELLED. BELTS LOOSENED. BUT AS ADELAIDE’S MASTERS APPRENTICES LURCHED INTO RAMBLING BLUES SOLOS AND LONG-WINDED PROGRESSIVE ROCK JAMS, THE TURNING AND SPEED MASTERING ABILITY AFFORDED BY GREENOUGH’S FOILS MEANT BOARDS BECAME SHORTER.
IN AN EFFORT TO BRING TURNING TO A CRESCENDO, THE STRINGERLESS VEE-BOTTOM STUBBY MADE CONTACT IN 1967 IN THE FORM OF BOB MCTAVISH’S PLASTIC MACHINE. PROBABLY FERVENT FROM TOO MUCH SPRINGTIME EXUBERANCE AND THE SCENT OF APPROACHING PSYCHEDELIA, THE HERALDING OF THE CRICKET SEASON IN THAT YEAR SEEMED TO INFECT THE DESIGN TENDENCIES OF THE RHYTHM AND BLUES LOVING FORMER DISC JOCKEY, WHO RESPONDED BY PLACING WHAT LOOKED LIKE THE BACK OF A GREY-NICHOLS CRICKET BAT ON THE BOTTOM OF WHAT WERE TYPICALLY 8 FOOT BOARDS. THE LYSERGIC SOAKED CONFUSION OF THE FILM THE FANTASTIC PLASTIC MACHINE GIVES A GLIMPSE OF THE STUPIDLY PROPORTIONED SPACE VESSELS PERFORMING IN MISTY, MUSHY CONDITIONS ON SYDNEY SHORES. WAYNE LYNCH SLEPT TO THE SITES OF A 360 DEGREE BARREL ROLE, RISING TO SHAPE AN IRONING BOARD TO REALISE HIS VISION, COMPLETE WITH CHILD-LIKE GRAPHICS QUERYING AS JIMMY HENDRIX-
ARE YOU EXPERIENCED?
BUT IN HAWAII, MCTAVISH SPUN OUT. BEFRIENDING THE ISLANDERS AND THEIR INTRICATE PINTAILS, THE HONOLUA SESSIONS GAVE BIRTH TO MORE REFINED POCKET ROCKETS, TRACKERS AND EGGS. THE REIGN OF THE VEE-BOTTOM WAS VAPOROUS. ITS EFFECTS WERE ETERNAL; ESPECIALLY ON THE INSECTS THAT ARE NOT ALIENS SURFING CLUB. THIS IS THE GOLDEN(TOP) ERA.
EVOLUTION AND SEA OF JOY SHOWCASE THE DIVERSITY OF BOARD SHAPES BUBBLING AND POPPING THROUGH THIS TRANSITION, ALL TO THE AVANTE GARDE TIMING OF TAMAN SHUD; DELIVERING A BRAIN JOLTING ANALOGY FOR A SOCIETY SET FREE FROM THE CONSTRAINTS OF THE PAST, OF ORTHODOXY. MORNING OF THE EARTH CONFIRMS THAT GROWTH. THE SHORTBOARD REVOLUTION WAS ASSURED; THE BOARDS CLEAN AND POINTED WITH DOWN-RAILS. PAUL WITZIGS LANGUID ACCOUNT OF COUNTRY SOUL SINGLE FIN MIGRATION SUGGESTS -
WE ARE THE MEASURE OF ALL THINGS. AND THE BEAUTY OF OUR CREATION, OF OUR ART IS PROPORTIONAL TO THE BEAUTY OF OURSELVES. JONAS MEKAS
THE MEDITATIVE MORNING OF THE EARTH UPHOLDS THAT SENSE TO THE PRESENT, AS A REFERENCE POINT FOR SEARCHERS. FURTHERMORE, AS A FORT FOR THE MENTALITY OF SOUL AND FREEDOM THROUGH SURFING, THE MOVIE AND ITS FOLKY SOUNDTRACK HAVE STOOD AGAINST EROSION BY THOSE FORCES WHICH SEEK TO FORGE THE THINNEST EDGE OF SURFING’S TRUTH UPON AN INNOCENT MARKET. BY THE 1970S BUSINESS WAS GETTING IN THE WAY. EVEN SO, THERE WERE MANY GREAT SURFERS. MICHAEL PETERSON HID BEHIND KIRRA WALLS. MARK RICHARDSON SOARED. CHEYNE HORAN WAS AS BRATTISH AS HE WAS BRILLIANT. HIS WINGED KEEL CLAD LAZER ZAP WAS MINT. BREAKING OUT OF THE WEST AND REFUSING TO FADE LIKE INXS, IAN ‘KANGA’ CAIRNS WAS MONSTROUS. PAYING HOMAGE TO THE EARLY 70S BONZA (DEVISED BY CALIFORNIAS CAMPBELL BROTHERS) SIMON ANDERSON DEVISED THE THRUSTER SETUP, ENABLING UNREAL SLASHABILTY. THE CORPORATIONS POUNCED. THE 1980S SAW SURFING TAKE ON A GARISH CAPITALIST FACE LIKE FLUORESCENT PINK ZINC AS COMPETITION AND AGGRESSION SEVERED ITS SOULFUL ROOTS.RECOVERY.
AS ‘SHORTS’ PROMOTING MAJOR BRANDS APPROACHED THE ANKLES LIKE BANNERS, AND THE COLOUR FADED ON COMPETITION SURFING, SAN DIEGO’S JOEL TUDOR RE-ASSESSED. DUMPING MODERN SHORTBOARDS AND LONGBOARDS ALIKE, HE PICKED UP WHERE NUUHIWA LEFT OFF, REIMAGINING THE VERY SAME EQUIPMENT IN USE JUST PRIOR TO THE SHORTBOARD REVOLUTION AND ASKING ‘WHAT IF?’ JOEL VISITED THE PAST IN THE CONTEXT OF THE FUTURE. HE TRANSCENDED ALL THE CONDITIONS THAT CONNIVE TOWARD ONE FASHION, ONE TRUTH, AND PROCEEDED TO RELEARN THE RIDING OF VINTAGE LOGS, BARELY UPDATED DONALD TAKAYAMA CRUISERS AND ODD EVOLUTION ERA EGGS. MORE JAZZ THAN ROCK, MIMICKING MILES DAVIS: AN APPRECIATION FOR THE SPACES BETWEEN THE MAJOR MOVES. THE COCKY BUT RESPECTFUL GENIUS REINSTATED SURFING AS A VEHICLE FOR DODGING IMPOSED NOTIONS OF NORMALITY. THAT APPROACH WAS SCAVENGED BY A BARRAGE OF FROTHING SURFERS, ARTISTS AND PUNKS SUCH AS ALEX KNOST, CJ NELSON AND JAI LEE. AND IN A DEVELOPMENT WHICH CONTINUES TO CONTEMPORARY TIMES AMIDST A LEGION OF ENLIGHTENED YOUTHS, INCREDIBLE FEMALE SURFERS TAKING THEIR RIGHTFUL PLACE AS THE MOST STYLISH ON THE PLANET, AND EMANCIPATED SENIORS, JOEL TUDOR PRESENTED THE LIMITLESS ARRAY OF SURFING EQUIPMENT AND BEHAVIOURS AS ONCE AGAIN ACCEPTABLE, RE-ESTABLISHING THE HALLOWED BASIS OF ITS CONCEPTION -
SURFING AS A MEANS TO SELF EXPRESSION, TIMELESS TRUTH, JOY.
COPYRIGHT KENT TURKICH 2009